Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
